Dealing With Wet Weather

These are some suggestions given by members as aresult of a discussion on wet weather at a Fuchsia Club Meeting
 ·         In ground plants seem to cope better with wet weather than baskets
·         Most baskets seem to be OK if up high
·         Pots benefit from being raised off the ground to help drainage ( even on seats or use bricks but don’t block drainage holes)
·         Plants which have dropped flowers and leaves seem to benefit from a good prune
·         Check for rust and mould in wet weather/ treat quickly/ isolate the affected plants
·         Take cuttings of sick plants
·         Some plants can be moved under eaves
·         Fertilizers leach out during continuous wet weather  especially slow release so renew often in very small doses
·         Spray on foliar fertilizers rather than water in
·         Plants need increased light in dull weather to prevent long lanky growth
·         Never put saucers under pots/ baskets especially in wet weather
 
 Cuttings: What now?
Cuttings taken in early March will be rooted by mid to late April. However, when to ‘pot up’ the cuttings will depend upon the development of each plant. Some are stronger and more rapid growers than others so all the cuttings will not root at the same time.
The propagation mix should have few or no nutrients in it. This encourages the cuttings to grow roots as they seek nourishment. However, once the cutting is well rooted, it will begin to make top growth and so will need some nutrients to maintain its growth.
Seasol in a very weak form can be sprayed on newly rooted cuttings to encourage root growth. As the new top growth develops, use a very weak solution of Nitrosol  or Charlie Carp. These fertilizers  are both high in Nitrogen so encourage leaf growth. Be careful not to overdo the fertilizer or the roots will not be able to cope and may burn and the little plant will die.
Continue to protect newly rooted cuttings in the shade house until you see strong top growth.  If you have placed bottles or plastic bags over the cuttings, the top should be removed or the bag opened slightly at about four weeks and the bottle at about six weeks. Up until now they have not been watered as they had their own little greenhouse in the bottle or bag.
Once the bottle or bag is removed altogether, then it is time to start using a weak foliar fertilizer but do not overdo it.
Watering with plain rain water every second water will help to flush excess salts and fertilizers from the mix.
When the plants are making good top and root growth begin to harden off the plants by placing them in brighter light and even very weak dappled sunlight.
By this time, it should be about eight to ten weeks from the time you first propagated the cuttings.
When the roots and top growth are well developed it is time to pot up the cuttings. The mix should not be too rich but needs some slow release fertilizer to provide adequate nutrients. Pot up each cutting into the next size pot then let it rest for a week or so in a shady spot. Later, gradually move it out into the garden itself preferably in weak dappled shade. The plant can usually stay in this pot for some time until the roots appear at the bottom or white roots appear around the sides when the plant is shaken gently from the pot.
Then it is time to move the plant to its next sized pot. Each time the plant is moved it can take a richer mix.
Always follow the practice of letting the plant ‘rest’ in a shady spot for a few days after potting before moving it back into the garden.
Janice Devine