•  tools and pots need to be clean and sterilized 
• work quickly but carefully
• use tip cuttings/ always keep the cuttings moist 
• use a propagating mix which is free draining
• the mix should have no nutrients so the baby plant will continue to send out roots looking for nutrients 
• the propagating mix needs to be kept moist but not wet
• the cutting needs to be misted or covered to prevent the leaves from dying before it can develop roots to support itself
• when the plant has developed a good root system  it needs to be planted on into a mix which has some nutrients but is not too rich
• watering or misting with a weak solution of Seasol will assist the plant to develop stronger roots
• When well rooted harden off the baby plant in a shady spot 
• Pot on only when roots appear at the base of the pot.

Gordon Rickards’ Method:
• take cuttings about 10cm long in March
• dip in cutting powder
• place cuttings into a good propagation mix
• cut the top off a plastic bottle
• place the cut end over the cuttings in the pot to make a mini greenhouse
• after three weeks test for roots by gently pulling on the cutting
• if the cuttings resist pulling  then roots have formed so remove the bottle
• protect cuttings in a shadehouse until hardened and roots appear well developed
• report into a larger container using good potting mix

PS Gordon’s method is well illustrated in a feature in Gardens and Outdoor Living Magazine February 2006  which he has kindly donated to our library

Harold’s HATE System:
which applies to fuchsia care as well as propagating is worth noting:

H: Hygiene & Handling Skills
A: Attention to detail
T: Tolerance & Timing
E: Enthusiasm and Endurance

H: keep pots & tools clean sterilize with metho or Bleach
A: work out a process/ use fresh tip cuttings have everything ready before you start
T: choose early morning or evening/ keep the cutting  cool and moist/ tools must be sharp/ take your time
E: be willing to wait

Harold’s Method:
• prepare a propagating mix of:
• 2 parts Amgrow Propagating Mix , 
• 1 part coarse river sand
•  1 part vermiculite or perlite ( river sand is the secret to success in this mix)
• startv with a 2” tube/fill with mix
• prepare a tip cutting and place in the tube
• cover with a plastic bag or heat tray at 16 degrees
• do not move cutting until roots appear from the base
• rule of thumb is four months in each pot
• do not prune for the first twelve month but tip prune the growing tips to shape

Alec Boyle’s Method:
• place good quality potting mix in  a plastic trough add a little coir
• take 6 to 8 cuttings prepared by removing most leaves then cutting below a leaf node, dip in water then hormone powder
• place the cuttings in the trough/ water in
• place trough in eastern light under a large tree
• do not cover
• keep cuttings moist/ water when needed
• Alec has 90-100% success rate with this method

Graeme ‘s Method:
• mix 3 parts river sand & 1 part coir peat enough to fill a polystyrene box
• take tip cutting up to 10cm long in Spring & Autumn or anytime  progressively until box is full
• no need for root hormone as strike rate is good
• water cuttings in  then cover with a plastic bottle with the bottom removed ( 1 bottle will cover  up to 3 cuttings)
• label as appropriate
• unscrew lid if needed to add more water
• place box in a well lit place without direct sun
• when cuttings have roots ( top growth is a good indicator)
• scoop out cuttings & pot  into 1/3 coir peat with slow release fertilizer already added to it / 1/3 potting mix and 1/3 river sand
• place in a sheltered spot to ‘harden’ off then move slowly into more light
• foliar fertilize as needed
• pot onto next size pot only when roots appear at the base of the pot.

Propagating & Potting on:

Always use sterilised potting mixture. Old mixture reused will result in many losses
Hygiene at every phase is important and worth the trouble.
Cuttings can be taken most of the year but Autumn and Spring are probably best in the mountains as cuttings are slow to strike in winter.
Cutting can be taken in winter in warmer parts of Sydney and country areas 10cm cuttings carefully taken from the side of  stems and left with a small ‘heel’ seem to callus over and root more quickly.
Peat pots are good for striking cuttings as they minimize damage to roots when potting on Small transparent storage boxes with transparent lids can take about
12 X 2” pots making a mini greenhouse.
Put potting mix into the lower half of pots then top with propagation mix in the top half. This results in less handling of fragile cuttings as cuttings can stay in the original pot longer.
Make sure cuttings are ‘hardened off’ before attempting to pot on.
River sand and coir makes a good propagation mix.
Debco Propagation mix is a good commercial propagation mix.
Florist foam (Oasis brick) is said to be good for striking cuttings.
When roots form just place the entire foam cube into potting mix without disturbing roots.