Planting a Fuchsia Border
Planting
a Fuchsia Border:
Fuchsias are very useful plants for planting in a border especially for areas of partial shade
Site: The space for the border needs to be 2 to 4 metres wide to allow for growth. Fuchsias like dappled shade in summer with more light in winter. Deciduous trees are good as they provide both. Tall trees such as eucalypts, which have a high canopy and allow the winter sun to penetrate under the tree as well as provide dappled shade in Summer, also work. Fuchsias grown in full shade will have problems flowering and may develop long and lanky growth. They like morning sun or very late afternoon sun. Fuchsias really dislike western sun, wind and frost.
Soil: Planting a border is easier than planting a hedge but the need for good soil preparation is vital. As with roses, the soil needs to be prepared several weeks before planting with enough time for the plants to establish before both the hot summer weather and the coldest part of the winter occur. Late winter for Spring planting or midsummer for early Autumn planting are best. You can dig deeply into the soil already there and improve it or, if you prefer, build up the bed 15cm (6”) to 25cm (10”) above the ground level with good soil mixed with cow and/or other manures, blood and bone and add lots of humus such as aged leaf and grass clippings, compost or stable manures
This step is important as it provides the plants with a good base with rich, free draining soil. Raised beds also allow you to dig a deep and wide hole for each plant. After preparing the soil, spread blood and bone or Organic Life over the soil then cover with good mulch. Moisten the soil and leave for some six weeks before planting.
Selecting Plants: Depending on your site and climate you may need to use very hardy frost or heat tolerant plants. You will also need to consider ultimate height after two or three year’s growth as well as ease of access to the border. If you have chosen to have a very wide border then a simple path using flagging or stepping stones will allow you to access the plants without breaking their brittle branches or compacting the soil. Position all the plants before planting. Smaller plants tend to settle in better than large plants. I usually use plants in 5” or 6” pots like those we sell at the Fair and Festival.
Spacing: Fuchsias need good air circulation so be generous when spacing the small plants. If the border is long and wide then plant in a triangle of three plants of the same cultivar to allow for a good block of colour. In a narrow border just use one plant of each cultivar but don’t be too het up about planting in straight lines. A slight zigzag effect will give each plant more space. Leave 60cm ( 2 feet) between plants to allow for growth. In the first year add small perennials such as brachycome, pinks, dianthus, cranesbills, lupins or annuals such as Lobelia, Alyssum, small begonias etc or even Bulbs such as Star Flowers, baby daffodils, Freesias, Muscari and Bluebells which can be left in the ground. In the front of the border choose trailers. Plant them at the widest space of the triangle or zigzag in about 30cm (12”) from the edge to allow for growth. Choose prolific flowerers like La Campanella, Micky Goult, Blue Lagoon rather than spectacular doubles which may have fewer flowers. If the bed has been built up the trailers will spill over the ‘hill’ at the edge of the border.
Care of the Border: With good soil preparation, the plants will make good growth during the first season. If you have planted in Autumn and your area gets very cold weather and/ or frost you will probably need to protect the baby plants. Cover the bed with good mulch. You can even place newspaper around the plants but not too close to the stem to allow plenty of moisture to penetrate. Tree sleeves can be placed over the plants to protect them. Just insert three sticks then place the tree sleeves over the sticks and the plant. If the plants are affected by frost/ cold do not cut back but leave them until the Spring when they will reshoot. I leave all my in ground plants alone until Spring when I tidy them up as new growth appears naturally. That is when you can dig gently around the plant to allow air into the soil, fertilize with a good balanced fertilizer and water well then cover with mulch. This should be all they will need for three to four months other than removing debris around the base and pinch pruning two or three times as they grow. You may want to foliar fertilize with a high potassium fertilizer such as Thrive Fruit and Flower or Better Bloom as flowers form.
In Summer (I do mine after Christmas) give the plants a trim back then dig lightly over the bed with a hoe, water then add more good organic fertilizer and renew the mulch for a good autumn show.
Janice
Fuchsias are very useful plants for planting in a border especially for areas of partial shade
Site: The space for the border needs to be 2 to 4 metres wide to allow for growth. Fuchsias like dappled shade in summer with more light in winter. Deciduous trees are good as they provide both. Tall trees such as eucalypts, which have a high canopy and allow the winter sun to penetrate under the tree as well as provide dappled shade in Summer, also work. Fuchsias grown in full shade will have problems flowering and may develop long and lanky growth. They like morning sun or very late afternoon sun. Fuchsias really dislike western sun, wind and frost.
Soil: Planting a border is easier than planting a hedge but the need for good soil preparation is vital. As with roses, the soil needs to be prepared several weeks before planting with enough time for the plants to establish before both the hot summer weather and the coldest part of the winter occur. Late winter for Spring planting or midsummer for early Autumn planting are best. You can dig deeply into the soil already there and improve it or, if you prefer, build up the bed 15cm (6”) to 25cm (10”) above the ground level with good soil mixed with cow and/or other manures, blood and bone and add lots of humus such as aged leaf and grass clippings, compost or stable manures
This step is important as it provides the plants with a good base with rich, free draining soil. Raised beds also allow you to dig a deep and wide hole for each plant. After preparing the soil, spread blood and bone or Organic Life over the soil then cover with good mulch. Moisten the soil and leave for some six weeks before planting.
Selecting Plants: Depending on your site and climate you may need to use very hardy frost or heat tolerant plants. You will also need to consider ultimate height after two or three year’s growth as well as ease of access to the border. If you have chosen to have a very wide border then a simple path using flagging or stepping stones will allow you to access the plants without breaking their brittle branches or compacting the soil. Position all the plants before planting. Smaller plants tend to settle in better than large plants. I usually use plants in 5” or 6” pots like those we sell at the Fair and Festival.
Spacing: Fuchsias need good air circulation so be generous when spacing the small plants. If the border is long and wide then plant in a triangle of three plants of the same cultivar to allow for a good block of colour. In a narrow border just use one plant of each cultivar but don’t be too het up about planting in straight lines. A slight zigzag effect will give each plant more space. Leave 60cm ( 2 feet) between plants to allow for growth. In the first year add small perennials such as brachycome, pinks, dianthus, cranesbills, lupins or annuals such as Lobelia, Alyssum, small begonias etc or even Bulbs such as Star Flowers, baby daffodils, Freesias, Muscari and Bluebells which can be left in the ground. In the front of the border choose trailers. Plant them at the widest space of the triangle or zigzag in about 30cm (12”) from the edge to allow for growth. Choose prolific flowerers like La Campanella, Micky Goult, Blue Lagoon rather than spectacular doubles which may have fewer flowers. If the bed has been built up the trailers will spill over the ‘hill’ at the edge of the border.
Care of the Border: With good soil preparation, the plants will make good growth during the first season. If you have planted in Autumn and your area gets very cold weather and/ or frost you will probably need to protect the baby plants. Cover the bed with good mulch. You can even place newspaper around the plants but not too close to the stem to allow plenty of moisture to penetrate. Tree sleeves can be placed over the plants to protect them. Just insert three sticks then place the tree sleeves over the sticks and the plant. If the plants are affected by frost/ cold do not cut back but leave them until the Spring when they will reshoot. I leave all my in ground plants alone until Spring when I tidy them up as new growth appears naturally. That is when you can dig gently around the plant to allow air into the soil, fertilize with a good balanced fertilizer and water well then cover with mulch. This should be all they will need for three to four months other than removing debris around the base and pinch pruning two or three times as they grow. You may want to foliar fertilize with a high potassium fertilizer such as Thrive Fruit and Flower or Better Bloom as flowers form.
In Summer (I do mine after Christmas) give the plants a trim back then dig lightly over the bed with a hoe, water then add more good organic fertilizer and renew the mulch for a good autumn show.
Janice
Tall Varieties for Borders:
Sepals: white flushed pink/ Corolla: bishop purple /Strong bush/ free flowering/ hardy heat & cold
Tube & Sepals: bright red Corolla: white shaded and veined carmine / tall & vigorous / hardy in heat/cold
Tube & Sepals: crimson-cerise Corolla: deep purple shading to carmine at the base/ vigorous / free flowering / hardy
Tube : pink Sepals: deep rose Corolla: cerise pink/ bell shaped / free flowering/ reliable and vigorous
Tube & Sepals: pale rose tipped green Corolla: lavender blue blotched pink /large flower/ tall & strong/ hardy
Tube & Sepals: white Corolla: pale mauve/ very tall and hardy/ tiny flowers/ free flowering
Tube & Sepals: rosy pink Corolla: light rose bengal/ small flowers but very free flowering/ very hardy and vigorous
Tube & Sepals: carmine Corolla: centre royal purple outer splashed pink/ large Flower/ free flowering/ self branching
and easy to grow/
Tube: white Sepals: palest pink green tips Corolla: clear pink with round petals/ free flowering/ very strong/ tall
Medium Varieties for Borders
Tube & Sepals: bright rosy red/ Corolla: blue with deep purple cast / free flowering/ needs pinching/ early flowering
Tubes & Sepals: dark aubergine Corolla: bright aubergine/ corolla: flared/ free flowering/ early
Tube & Sepals: carmine Corolla; purple with cerise veins/ small to medium flowers/ free flowering/ hardy and vigorous/ spreading
Tube: crimson Sepals: dark crimson Corolla: bright lilac purple veined cerise/ medium blooms/ vigorous
Tube & Sepals: rich scarlet Corolla: very dark purple/ free flowering/ very hardy & vigorous
Tube & Sepals: carmine Corolla: mauve purple veined carmine / small flower/ free flowering/vigorous/
Tube: short dark red Sepals: long & dark red Corolla: dark purple-violet bushy/ vigorous/ tall/ free flowering/ hardy
Tube & Sepals: red Corolla: white with red/pink veins/ small flower/ free flowering/vigorous
Plants for the front of the border:
:
Tube: pinkish red Sepals: white edged cerise Corolla: purple with white shading / free flowering/ small flowers
Tube and Sepals: white/flushed pink under Corolla: imperial purple veined cerise/ Small flowers/ very free flowering/ vigorous
Tube & Sepals: carmine Corolla: bright violet splashed white/ small flower/ free flowering/ upturned and self branching
Tube: white Sepals: white upturned Corolla: royal purple splashed white, pink & purple/ free flowering/ hardy/ vigorous
Tube & Sepals: pale pink Corolla: lavender & pink / hardy /free flowering
Tube & Sepals: bright red Corolla: white with red veining huge blooms
Tube & Sepals: pale pink Corolla: deep pink/ large bloom/ vigorous/ free flowering / hardy
Tube & Sepals: white flushed pink Corolla: soft lilac / free & long flowering / hardy